By David Breashears
This outstanding memoir is the tale of the famed IMAX cinematographer, adventurer, and mountaineer, whose terrifying reports through the 1996 season on Mt. Everest turned the defining second of his existence. of full-color images.
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Additional info for High Exposure: An Enduring Passion for Everest and Unforgiving Places
But if Makalu Gau radioed right down to Wongchu at Camp II (Wongchu was once appearing as sirdar to either our workforce and the Taiwanese expedition), he used to be urged to go away Chen at Camp III respiring supplementary oxygen, which Chen refused. It appeared strange that an day trip chief was once asking suggestion of his sirdar, who used to be nearly 3,000 toes under. After placing Chen again in his tent, Makalu Gau and his Sherpa workforce began as much as Camp IV. I didn’t listen approximately any of this till a couple of hours later, round one P. M. , after Jangbu and our different Sherpas had already long gone as much as Camp IV and have been on their approach down back. via that time, Chen was once being escorted slowly down from Camp III through Passang Tamang, a Taiwanese workforce Sherpa, and Chen’s situation was once worsening. He spoke no English, making it difficult for the Sherpa to understand what was once improper. Wongchu radioed Jangbu soliciting for that he fast descend the mounted ropes to help within the evacuation. in basic terms then did Wongchu inform me approximately Chen. Ed, Robert, and that i started to computer screen the placement via our telescope and with the radio. As Chen descended at the ropes, Makalu Gau–partway as much as Camp IV—radioed all the way down to Chen. back Chen guaranteed his teammate that he was once fantastic, and Makalu Gau persevered up. yet now not a lot later, he begun flailing his hands within the air irrationally, nonetheless refusing to take advantage of oxygen. A part hour after that, Jangbu radioed to us in intermittent calls: “He sat down,” then, “He fell asleep,” after which, “We imagine he’s lifeless. ” I advised Jangbu to suppose Chen’s neck for a pulse, then to take off his personal glacier glasses and carry them correct less than Chen’s nostril to work out if there has been any mist from Chen’s breath. “No,” acknowledged Jangbu. “He’s lifeless. ” Unwilling to maneuver the corpse, the Sherpas resumed their descent, leaving the physique tethered to the mounted rope three hundred vertical toes above the ground of the Lhotse Face. For them it intended undesirable success to determine a physique at the mountain, less to the touch one. via our telescope, shall we in actual fact see Chen striking from the rope, immobile. Ed, Robert, and that i instantly begun up from Camp II with a coil of rope, hoping he had collapsed and used to be purely subconscious. a day squall started to blow swirling snow. relocating speedy, we reached the forty-foot bergschrund and clipped into the rope. a couple of minutes greater, we reached him. We have been nonetheless thirty toes away, yet i'll inform he was once useless incidentally his contorted physique hung from the rope. 100 ft above Chen, a Sherpa used to be status nonetheless, unwilling to descend any nearer or to unclip from the rope and climb round. We went nearer and became him over. The man’s eyes have been nonetheless open, and a yellowish fluid used to be coming from his mouth. there has been a glance of mild bewilderment in his eyes, nearly similar to the expression I’d noticeable on Dawa Nuru’s face after I excavated him from the avalanche at the north facet of Everest ten years previous. It wasn’t a glance of discomfort. The bewilderment appeared to say, I can’t think I’m death like this. Ed shouted at him loudly, attempting to set off a startle reflex. yet he was once useless.